i think i may hate Bon Appétit. it’s a shame to say, after making the decision last year to let my Saveur subscription lapse in favour of taking up the vastly more affordable BA, but it does appear to be the case. it is not as if it is a wholly loathesome magazine, it is just not to my tastes. i’m sure the recipes are good; there are many, and if this was not something that i am indifferent too it would probably count strongly in BA’s favour. however, it just seems so thin on both content and context, by which i suppose i mean the cultural and historical journalistic forays that i was never quite satisfied with in Saveur, but now miss so dearly.
more to the point, i find the voice of the magazine insufferably trite – it is fully within the stylistic tradition of “5 Easy Ways to ______ Your ________,” all hard sells and the sort of hackneyed magazine template-writing that i didn’t realize was so refreshingly toned-down in Saveur. not that this tone or attitude is totally absent from Saveur, it is only that i had forgotten that in contrast to much of what is out there, Saveur has an almost intellectual, high-brow quality, that i suppose is very much a part of their marketing strategy. i can’t for the life of me think why i didn’t take pains to actually read a couple of issues of BA before i made the switch, and now it shows up every month to annoy me, remind me of my folly.
unfortunately, one gets what one pays for, it seems.
on which note, will someone lend me a damn copy of the Culinary Materialism issue of Collapse, so i don’t have to goddamn spend 22£ on it? (which i won’t)