product review

This Is Everything That’s Wrong With Everything, And I’m Gonna Eat It.

Bannock‘s pickerel taco, which you will notice, is on a steamed bun, not a tortilla.

“pickerel taco + cucumber apple salad, on steamed bun, caviar tartar”

sometimes i suspect that my outrage at stuff like this is no different from the frothing about the mouth that academics and social scientists were getting into over post-modernism 20 years ago (and apparently, as my return to Sociology has revealed to me, still are, although i had thought we were long over/resigned to it); the sort of “YOU CAN’T JUST USE ANY WORD FOR ANY THING, THINGS MEAN THINGS.” although it could be argued that my own reaction is all the more out of proportion because the stakes of culinary aesthetics v. cultural politics may not be so high (ie: the critique of universal human rights v. “don’t call it a tomato wash, it’s a salsa you asshole”).

where does one even start? the layers of voguish culinary cant (i could have said “buzzwordery,” but i decided to Go Big) seem to endlessly distort in the recursive funhouse that is Bannock (as if one could faintly discern in the distance some cavorting juggalo Chef Boyardee of a Loki figure) – where “Canadian comfort food” is (self?)evidently pad thai with tomato jam and fried beans, or pulled pork tourtière, and one fears pointing out the redundancy of “caviar tartar” for the possibility that it is actually a play on “tartar sauce” (it is on a fish sandwich. er, taco. or, steam bun…that i suppose is meant to evoke the Eastern Onatarion “fish roll” that is so weird and so prized [picture fried fish in a hot dog bun topped with an almost custard-thick donair sauce]).

it is all so consummately intellectually offensive that i may have to lay down my arms and just go eat the bastard thing.



2 thoughts on “This Is Everything That’s Wrong With Everything, And I’m Gonna Eat It.

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